In the past, the tips of how to buy a suit correctly passed from father to son, unfortunately this is a tradition that has been lost and nowadays a lot of people get it wrong (and ugly) at the time of purchase or adjust a suit, but there are basic tips and simple that, if followed exactly, can help you know if the trim of the suit is correct.
In the image below you can see the trim and the measures ideal for a suit perfect and the relationship with the tips given.
How do you know if the trim of the suit is that correct?
1 – The trim of the suit in the fitting room
– Do not be lazy
Does not to evaluate a custom using a t-shirt or polo shirt, ask the seller a shirt, even if you are not going to buy it. The same goes for running shoes, replace the shoes.
b – Jacket correct
The suits of today are well certain in the body, so the tissue in excess is a bad sign.
It is possible to notice if the suit is large or bad cut in the back, where it should be smooth and free of folds, or on the sleeves are very wide, or even in the belly, with great leftovers.
c – For your body type
The ideal is that the suit is lightly acinturado, this format, in addition to let it more elegant and elongate your silhouette and increase the shoulders, as the models more upright benefit those who have a few extra pounds.
d – Two or three buttons?
Consider the model of three buttons* better for those who are overweight, because it draws attention to the face and the tie, deflecting the look of the belly, and the two buttons virtually creates an arrow straight to the abdomen, then, if this is chosen, it is best that is with everything on top.
*Note: unfortunately, the suits 3 buttons are getting dated and the two buttons ended up becoming the standard for any type of silhouette. (up to date)
and – Shoulders
Can’t rest or miss! In the first case is a concave between the doorway and the top of the arm, in the second case, the fabric jerking and ends up with the trim. The ideal is that it is comfortable without rest, as in the photo to the side.
f – Collar
The lapel of the suit jacket is always a little bit smaller than the collar of the shirt. Notice that the shirt gives finish on the back, it creates harmony and, breaking, makes it seem that you are taller.
2 – The trim of a suit in time to adjust
the – Bars
In front has to pull over on the laces of the shoe, leaving a bit of fabric and ago must get to the top of the jump, or is, lower in front and higher in back.
Time: one straight bar that a lot of people do is wrong and undermines the trim of the pants.
b – Sleeves
As well as the collar, should leave to the shows more or less half a centimeter of the shirt. To know the right place to use the pulse as a measure, is it that ends the shirt.
c – lateral Adjustments
After a lot of prove has not found a suit that not leftover in the belly? This can be corrected with lateral adjustments.
Other elements that influence the trim of the suit
The fabric of the suit or custom
Wool cold, tissue made with natural fiber, although more expensive, is a good choice and the more traditional tailoring, has good fluidity and structure, falls well on the shoulders , waist and chest.
Synthetics, such as the poliviscose, are warmer and do not have the same visual effect on your silhouette.
Fibers of cotton or linen tend to be more casual, you can be well on the body, but knead it with greater frequency, especially the linen.
Patterns of the suit or custom
In fact they do not have a direct influence on the trim of the costume, but they also create an optical illusion that can be beneficial to your physical type.
Streaks of chalk tend to elongate the silhouette and are indicated for anyone who has low height, already the chess Prince of Wales usually work out well for anyone who is high.
Who has the stature median benefits with any of these standards*.
*Note: if it is your first suit it is best that you opt for something in plain fabric, overcoats in classic colours of grey, navy or black.
More modern versions of the suit/custom
The coat shorter, known as cropped helps to lengthen the legs, but shies away from the traditional model, whose length does not exceed the end of the hip.
There are also those who make the bar shorter, showing a small piece of the ankle purpose, but not everyone likes that type of thing.
This type of change is advisable for those who want to look modern, but you know you can have a play outdated in a few years, since this type of trend may disappear.
In our panel on pinterest has many examples of the trim of the suit.
The opinion of the author:
Be careful with the tips of sellers and, especially, who is going to make adjustment, they are not always current with the trends, the models, suits and measures.
A seamstress once insisted to me that the sleeve of the jacket should end at the half of the hand! This is only correct if you are doing a fantasy of scarecrow! Inform yourself very well before you buy and, in the case of panic, print the photo below and leave it in your wallet, James Bond never misses!