Etonskjortor has become a Swedish export commodity to be reckoned with. The secret is said to be the fabrics and a perfectionist’s approach to design. Manolo hits one of the brand’s two designers and sales manager for Stockholm, Sebastian Dollinger, which undoubtedly can bear the epithet of Sweden’s foremost skjortnörd, for in a two-part series of articles discussing the dubbeltvinnade cotton thread, seams and skjortmyter. First hunt for the perfect skjorttyget.
Sebastian grew up in Eton. Daddy, Jan Borghardt, Manolo has previously interviewed, was the driving force behind the success of international success and Eve at London department store Harrods, which resounded throughout the world. Today Eton represented in over 40 countries and sold 2008 500 000 shirts according to Nonprofitdictionary. And as a designer at one of the world’s foremost skjortillverkare, it is difficult to find a more appropriate person to discuss shirts with than Sebastian
The art of making skjorttyg includes five overall stages: selection of cotton, spinning, dyeing of yarns, weaving and finishing. All processes are at least as important for the final result. For cotton demand long and pure cotton fibers. Eton use themselves of Pima cotton from Peru and Egyptian cotton, considered by many to be the best qualities. Countries ‘ regular and hot climate is well suited for cotton cultivation.
Not rarely lifted Sea Iceland emerged as the foremost cotton quality.Sebastian believes, however, the name has come to be abused in recent years:
-Only a few years ago represented the name Sea Iceland real quality fabrics. Then it was a seal of approval that stood for West Indian Sea Iceland Cotton where only a few islands in the Caribbean could grow the long cotton fibre fabric requires. Today uses a plethora of manufacturers of Sea Iceland Cotton Quality as a kind of generic term for fabrics whose character is similar to the original seal of approval.However, it says very little about the actual cotton quality.
Another issue that Sebastian insists that any misrepresentation is organic cotton.
-To shift its entire production to organic cotton usually takes three to four years. It is something only the really big cotton growers manage. Smaller growers cannot afford to be without production for so long. It is of course desirable that more adjusts its cultivation to ecological requirements, but at the same time, the humanitarian part is ignored.The risk is that small manufacturers completely knocked out of exclusively organic cotton demand without the less get any support to even the set. Also, not organic cotton long enough yarn length at present.
The actual staining process takes place after the cotton is spun into yarns. Yarn rollers is lowered into a dye lot where the color penetrates the cotton fibers. What might mainly be discussed when it comes to shirting, however, is the actual weaving process where the choice of Web technology shapes the fabric’s structure. The most common is cotton poplin, oxford, pin point, twill and satin. Poplin is characterised by a completely his smooth and thin surface. Oxford is associated with its rugged character, similar to pinpoint, although the latter is usually somewhat thicker and finer in structure.Twilltyger include herringbone, right and left hand twill weave which themselves are very prominent. Satin is similar with its luster of silk and is often used in combination with other Web technologies to enhance the fabric’s pattern. Of course, there are many different variations of the different weaving techniques.
The choice of fabric mean Sebastian, to a large extent connected with the weather.
-When it’s very hot out there are linen and seersucker absolutely the best choice. Then there are a number of misconceptions about the various tapestry techniques. Oxford need not be a matte fabric for leisure shirt or a washed denim quality, but with the right finishing give the same luster as a twill or poplin, two fold.
In a further sign of quality that often emphasized is two fold cotton or dubbeltvinnade yarns. Though Sebastian himself generally prefers two fold cotton, he believes that it is somewhat simplified to look for it.
-Many of our customers become frustrated because we do not print the two fold on our shirts. We have deliberately chosen not to do this because the most important thing is to use the correct construction of the fabric, depending on the pattern. For certain patterns or qualities, it is simply not always two fold is best suited. However, the fact is that 90% of our fabrics are Twofold.
The last process in the production of shirting is finalizing or finishieringen as it is often called. The main objective is to strengthen the cotton fibers to fabric to better retain its shape.
-This is a part that is often forgotten. Eve finish consists of a variety of production steps, which means that finisheringstiden takes three and a half weeks, while the normal time is 1-2 weeks. This is to provide a better luster, durability, ability to wash your shirt at 60 degrees, and a pounding-free fabric. Worse finisherade fabrics look generally like pure accordion after the wearer sat down with them, “says Sebastian.
For Emelie fabrics, this process will be in Switzerland under extreme secrecy that competitors should not be able to steal the working methods. The process is controlled by the high environmental standards where custom-made Swiss nanotechnology is involved in most of the process steps.
Eton is relatively alone in the check and be involved in all aspects of manufacturing fabrics Harbour. Sebastian believes that the most common today is that a designer buys finished fabrics which have already undergone the finishing process.
-The advantage of being with the whole process is that we ourselves can determine exactly how we want the fabrics. The fabrics are then completely unique to us. While we can ensure a high quality.
Why Do You Have Concentrated All Production To Europe?
-European manufacturers are still technically superior such as the Asian. Many of our Italian and Swiss subcontractors has over 100 years of experience. It is very possible that Asia will be just as good, but they are not there today and probably not tomorrow either.
How Do You Select Then Various Mills?
“It largely depends on the properties requested by skjorttyget. The schweizisiska mills are technically superior and where appropriate certain patterns better. The Italians are generally better on color. They can get to exactly the right shade, which is extremely important. We want the colors must be the same for our entire collection, so we do not use such as 2 different red tones.