Alexander McQueen: the SS2015 Fashion Show at Paris Fashion Week

Japan dark, skin, flowers, magnificent construction details: the Alexander McQueen spring / summer 2015 is a night vision and charming.

From a black background, on which stand the gigantic white-carving flowers, comes a dark collection, the black that leaves room only to red, white and pink cherry blossoms. Yes: Sarah Burton for the Spring / Summer 2015 at the Maison Alexander McQueen inspired to Japan, but with the knowledge that you need to be McQueen to look east without the first reaction is dull.

A dark East

Japan in this collection we recognize it right away in the hills and in Kimono lines in floral ornamental design, but just when we think we have it pigeonholed, the disturbing element takes over: the skin of the clothes and decorations to the laser, the scaffolding of impalpable organza strapless dresses, masks that frame so disturbing (from kabuki, but also for boxers) the face of the models, the sandals from plexiglas heels and the endless crosses on the leg.In short, forget the delicacy of lotus flowers and yet the flowers are there, but let themselves be contaminated by black leather strips, that shape the bust and back on most of the looks.

Flowers and contrasts

Just the flowers , declined on all materials, are the thread of a path that is articulated through long, light dresses, short and structured, through complete and overcoats from kimono lines, ending on perforated mesh clothes, and almost dissolve in the compositions of pearls. The texture of black leather succeeds in transforming the classic Japanese forms;impalpable fabric editing pushing hard in the opposite direction, and this collision produces the masterpieces of the collection, creations that reach the boundary between the ready-to-wear and haute couture.

The interpretation of the desires

As the white-sculpture flowers are a reflection of the artist Mark Quinn on the theme of desire, this collection interprets our desires, their contradictions, and we heard them returns: dresses with fluffy skirts made ​​of cut flowers nell’organza, dresses like tunics with beautiful floral prints; overcoats, suits and leather skirts; jackets and pants; necklines, sleeves ripped in length, bodices and intersections. We all, here, and we can be everything at once: dreamy princesses and queens of darkness.