Make the difference …
As the tests progress, I realize that the biggest difficulty is to show you clearly the differences between brands. The goal being that at the end of the test you will be able to tell you “OK, this brand has exactly the same price positioning and products very similar to this other brand, but here are the concrete criteria that will make me ‘Buys it specifically’.
As men’s offerings expand, it becomes more and more difficult to differentiate brands whose characteristics become more and more subtle.
Fortunately, our site offers shirts at 54 euros and whose differences with other brands of the same positioning are clearly seen in the product.
I First Handle: Picture And Universe Of Brand
1 Business Model And Branding
As with all brands without intermediaries, where everything is focused on product optimization, the brand universe and storytelling are necessarily undeveloped (and it is not at all what we are looking for). Amaury, the creator of Première Channel, wanted from the beginning to make shirts ready to wear.
In order to be sure to offer a shirt that suits as many people as possible, he first created a brand of custom shirts, which he developed for 4 years. He was able to obtain as much information as possible in order to create a shirt that pleases to the greatest number, whether in terms of cuts or collar width.
Everything is done if not as you will have understood online, without intermediarieswith product presentations characteristics of the brands of that niche there that can recall eg Hast or The Pants.
Technical Characteristics Of Shirts
Since I have been able to test two shirts and both have the same characteristics, I present them here in a common part:
Amaury especially emphasized the finishes to characterize its brand: mother-of-pearl buttons with cross buttoning, seams of 7 points to cm and last buttonhole to the horizontal.
Quite remarkable finishes for this price range and, what particularly pleased me, isespecially the hidden button placket. It makes it possible to easily wear shirts with two open buttons avoiding that the collar yawns on the sides as it can often be seen elsewhere.
Clothing and Apparel
The manufacture is made in Eastern Europe and there are spinning mills quite diversified for the fabrics, notably Albini. I appreciate in any case the subtlety of the fabrics proposed, including flannels and milleries patterns (very thin vertical stripes) declined in an original way on chambray and twill.
Cup and sizing
Another big difference: I was able to test the 36 and it is surely one of the first shirts ready to wear whose fit perfectly me. (This is often too big for other brands especially at the armhole). It is in this case high enough: the silhouette is really well enhanced (but on the other hand in terms of comfort I would avoid carrying it above 27-28 degrees).
In terms of length, on the other hand, we remain more on shirts to wear in the trousers.
Ii Test Of Shirts First Handle
1 The Casual Shirt
I was able to wear it in summer: the fabric was rather pleasant for the season with a 120/2* 120/2 titration and a weight of 118g/m². This is a versatile 4 seasons poplin. It is a casual shirt that I appreciate very much wearing in summer and Cambodia (about 1 to twice a week)
The famous hidden buttoning that allows the blow to the sides to maintain a good hold. They also prevent whales from slipping off the collar if you ever forget them when washing (I advise against whales whilst washing them, which systematically deform them).
The check pattern is elaborate enough to wear alone with a chino and boots in the summer and can accompany a fine knitted sweater in winter.
I wear it here in a summer outfit with a cotton poplin chino Soran (surely the lightest chino I have ever worn), a linen belt Atelier Particulier, suede derbies Faguo and one Blandin & Delloye linen jacket.
It is available here at 56 euros.
2 The Business Shirt
This shirt is an excellent illustration of the variety and subtlety of the motifs available: we find a lot of blue fabrics milleraies (extremely thin vertical stripes, which are not as frequent as that and I like very much on Textures like twill or chambray).
Here, it is a dobby with micro-motifs: one feels right away that this shirt is intended for a formal use by its rigidity and the subtlety of its motif.
A texture like the dobby also requires a slightly heavier tissue with less fine titration: here is 100/2-100/2 with a weight of 130g/m².
I have however been able to wear it only three times given that I received it in October, I do not have as yet no particular remark to make about its longevity.
The Neck Shoulders
Nothing special to report: it is perhaps a hair more generous than the casual shirt but it is probably because the shirt has not yet been washed.
The register is much more valuable than the previous shirt: even though the collar allows it, I have not yet tried to wear it open neck without ties. It will fit more into a business outfit (even mismatchedas is the case here).
The texture of the dobby makes a perfect link between the simple wool twill of the suit and the twill of the tie.
The pocket allows to break the very classic set between the gray jacket anthracite gray and the tie club, it allows the top to correspond more to the more casual registry of a mismatched outfit.
The overall outfit, worn with Oliver Wicks navy flannel pants and Oliver Sweeney ankle boots (well-groomed, a shoe shift is imminent). The jacket and the accessories come from the Franks Tireurs (of which we will soon publish the test).
The shirt is available here at 56 euros.
Cothingexpress offers a range of curved shirts with very subtle fabrics that are not seen everywhere and neat finishes, especially hidden buttoning. It is then still a little early to judge the longevity of the shirts but one should a priori find there value level price/quality (the fabrics are qualitative and the making is done in Eastern Europe). We also already have a nice variety with 23 models available, from the most casual to the most formal.